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Materials: Clark's O.N.T. (5 balls) or J. & P. Coats (3 balls) Mercerized Crochet, size 30, color 9 Yellow.
 Milward's steel crochet hook No. 7.
2 yds. millinery wire and 2 yds. of ribbon.

Crown. Beginning at tip, ch 10, join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: * Ch 10, s c in ring, repeat from * until 24 loops are made, then ch 6.
2nd rnd: S c in 1st loop, * ch 5, s c in next loop, repeat from * around, ending, with s c under ch-6 of previous rnd.
3rd rnd: Ch 5, s c in each loop with ch-5 between s cs.
4th rnd: * Ch 3, 5 d c under next loop, ch 3, s c in next loop, ch 4, s c in same loop, repeat frorn * until 12 5-d c groups are made, then ch 3,

s c in next loop, ch 5, s c in next loop, ch 2, s c in first d c of 5-d c group.
5th rnd: Ch 5 (to count as tr and ch-1), tr in each of next 4 d c with ch-1 between each tr, * ch 4, s c in next ch-4 loop, ch 4, tr in each d c of group with ch-1 between each tr, repeat froal around. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, s c in next ch-4 loop, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch of ch-5 first made.
6th rnd: Ch 6 (to count as tr and ch-2), tr in each tr with ch-2 between trs, but omitting ch-2 between groups (that is between last tr of one group and 1st tr of next group). After last tr, join with sl st in 4th ch of ch-6 first made and sl st to 1st tr.
7th rnd: * Ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, repeat from * around (do not make s cs between 2 trs that come together without ch-2 between), ending with ch 5, s c in 1st loop.
8th rnd: * Ch 3, 5 d c under next loop, ch 3, s c in next loop, ch 5, s c in next loop, repeat from * ending with last s c in ch-3 first made.
9th rnd: * Ch 4, tr in each of next 5 d c with ch I between trs, ch 4, s c in ch-5 loop, repeat from * ending with sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.
10th rnd: Same as 6th rnd, ending with sl st in 4th st of ch-6 first made.
11th rnd: Same as 7th rnd, ending with ch 5, sl st in 1st loop.
12th rnd: Same as 8th rnd.
13th rnd: Same as 9th rnd. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.
14th rnd: Same as 6th rnd.
15th rnd: Ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, skip next 2 tr, s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, * ch 5, skip next 2-tr (that are together), s c under next ch-2 sp, ch 5, skip next 2 tr, s c under

next ch-2 sp, ch 5, s c under next ch-2 sp, repeat from * ending with ch 5, s c in sl st.
16th rnd: Ch 5, s c under next ch-5 loop, then repeat from * of 8th rnd. After last group of d cs are made, ch 3, s c under next ch-5 loop, ch 6, skip next loop, s c under next loop.
17th rnd: Same as 9th rnd. After last group of trs is made, ch 4, s c under cb-6 loop.
18th rnd: Ch 4, tr in each tr with ch-2 between trs, but omitting ch-2 between groups (as in 6th rnd). After last tr, join with sl st in 4th st of ch-4 first made.
19th rnd: Same as 15th rnd, ending with ch-5, s c under 1st ch-5 loop.
20th rnd: Same as 8th rnd. After last group of d c is made, ch 3, s c under next loop, ch 5, s c under next loop.
21st rnd: Ch 4, tr in each of next 5 d c with ch-1 between trs, then repeat from * of 5th rnd. After last group of tr is made, ch 4, s c under next loop.
22nd rnd: Same as 6th rnd, but end with s c in 6th st of ch-6.
23rd rnd: Ch 4, and make 2 tr under each ch-2 sp and 1 tr in each tr. Join with sl st. Do not break off.
Brim. 1st rnd: * Ch 6, skip 2 tr, s c in next tr, repeat frorn * around.
2nd rnd: Ch 5, s c under next loop, then repeat from * of 8th rnd of crown, around.
3rd rnd: Same as 9th rnd of crown.
4th rnd: Same as 6th rnd of crown. After last tr, join with sl st in 6th st of ch-6 first made.
5th rnd: Same as 7th rnd of crown.
6th to 12th rnds incl: Repeat from 8th to 14th rnds of crown incl.

13th rnd: S c in each tr and 2 s c (and sometimes 3 s c to keep work flat) in each sp.
14th and 15th rnds: S c in each s c.
With thread double work a rnd of s c holding along wire and working over it so that it is completely covered. Fasten wire neatly. Break off.
Sew ribbon band inside of crown adjusting headsize. Starch hat or use white shellac and block. Trim hat as in illustration.

by: Megan Cherry

Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity. 

Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat. 

The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores. 

A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper. 

Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains. 

 

One of the rising arts and crafts type hobbies or business idea to consider is glass etching.  Its becoming more and more popular because you can do amazing artistic things with it and create a permanent etching that is personalized for someone.  Most people that do this as a craft use the amateur method of using acid cream, but the more professional, elegant, and artistic way is to use a sandblaster.  Some people call this sandcarving glass and others call it glass sandblasting. 

Sandblasting glass allows you to actually chip the surface of the glass, whereas acid cream just lightly eats or frosts the image.  When sandblasting the glass you can carve deeper into the glass to create a 3 dimensional look.  Used right and you can create amazing works of art.  The cool thing is, it really isn't that hard to do but will take some practice.  The more you do it as with everything, the better you get.  Practice makes perfect, but very basic and appealing etched designs are easy to do.  All you need to do is create a stencil and use whichever etching process that you chose. Sandblasting equipment can be expensive because you will need a sandblaster, air compressor, air hose, sandblaster cabinet, abrasive media, and protective clothing.  

Overall, this can be a great business for personalized gifts, corporate awards, and glass decorations.  You can nearly do anything with this.  If you have any comments about this, please post them below.   

Services offered

I offer services in restorations of solid pieces. I don't work on paintings or prints. Statues, figurines, objects made of wood or plaster, are my expertise.China,pottery,resin objects.

To discuss restoration projects, you may get hold of me through my email.

Crafters and Artisans Products Ring Owner: Judy Sims Site: Judy's Corner
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